Thursday, July 9, 2009

My Molars Are Decayed

Bourdeilles

exploitation sector, initiated in 1995 with the cleaning of Antipode, route / block browsing a ceiling of about ten meters (8c / c + 1st ascent: Fred ROULHING in 1996, repeated by Dany Andrade in 2002) had a long hiatus until the early 2000s. Dan Evans, the highest climber of Perigord English (unless it is otherwise), then there opened two dozen passages.
Winter 2005, climbers Charentais in trouble opening emigrate to the Dordogne and systematically exploiting the bar. Results: fifty passages and two lanes equipped.
The southern exposure makes it more of a winter site. The rock has, unlike most sites Charentes, a nice variety of grips (flat strips, holes) and a grain relatively adherent. The proximity of the road wastes a little fun, but some passages are collectible and worth a visit.

Access:



Show Bourdeilles on a larger map

Overview



Bloc



1-Stanley 5a
2-Left abit 5a
2b-Right abit 5b
3-Bac-2 6b+
4-Trust 7b
5-Vanilla 6b

Bloc B



1-La boule 6b
2-Ciboulette 6c+/7a
3-Urbi et orbi 7b/b+
4b-Bénédiction 7b+/c
4-Slap le plat 6b+
5-L’idéaliste 6c+ assis : 7a
6-Antigène 6c
7-Platcake plat cake 6c+/7a
8-Pontificat 7b+/c



9-Prédiction 7c+/8a
10-TF1 7a assis : 7b
11-TF2 6c+



12-Prémonition Sitting 7b: 8a
13 -?
14-Conclave 7b / b +
15-Reminiscence 7b +

Block C



4-Duprise 6a seated 6c +
5b-6b + seated 7a
5-Round about a pound a week 6b sitting : 7a
6 - 6 sat: 7a +



7-Way Killer 6b + seated 7b +
8-Grandma are going 6b +
9-405 break 6c + / 7a seated 7b + / c
10-Headache 6c/7a
11-water heater 7a +



12-6a Hayfever
13-14-Stolen Interview

15 -
16 - 6 sat: 7b



17 - 6c +
18-L'oracle sitting 7b: 8a
19-DST 7a



Bazookoïd
20-21-7a +
Permafrost 22 -? (6b to the ferry)
23-Pandemic (lane equipped) 8b + / c cliff



Extensions 26-27-6a +
Buffalo Grill
7b 7b
Charral 28-29-6c Hippopotamus (Departure equipped route: 8b / b +? cliff)
The 30-Steackosaure
7a + 31 -?
A-7a +



32 - 6c +
33 - 5c/6a low starting: 7c
34 -
35 - 7a +



36-Antipode 8c / c + cliff

Block D

500 m further, moving towards Brantome, always on the edge of the road is another bar with currently 3 passes on the left block. From left to right:
1-Biactol 7b seated 7b +
2-Plasma 7a seated 7a + (not restore)
3 - 7b

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